The success of rock climber Veddriq Leonardo in winning a gold medal at the Paris Olympics for Yenny Wahid has a geopolitical symbol. He defeated Wu Peng (China) who won silver and Sam Watson (United States) who took home bronze. In the view of the Chairperson of the Indonesian Rock Climbing Federation (FPTI), this moment is rare; Indonesia has succeeded in overthrowing the supremacy of two superpowers.
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Veddriq's victory in the men's speed climbing event also changed the constellation of the overall Olympic champions. "If the Chinese athlete won, the overall Olympic champion would be China, but because they lost, the overall champion was America. Because the number of gold medals is the same, the difference is in the silver and bronze medals. So America should thank Indonesia, hehehe," said Yenny laughing.
According to Yenny Wahid, the development of rock climbing in Indonesia has indeed been very rapid in the last five years. And this has become the concern of the International Federation of Sport Climbing or IFSC which is the parent organization of rock climbing throughout the world. Indonesia's rapid development is often used as an example by IFSC administrators in motivating countries that want to develop the sport of rock climbing.
Veddriq's success at the Olympics and a number of other rock climbing athletes, both male and female, in a number of events held can be an example for Indonesian youth who are interested in pursuing this sport.
"Veddriq Leonardo can win gold at the Paris Olympics. As long as you want to, practice diligently and persevere, you can. If you aspire to become a professional rock climber, train at the nearest club and contact the federation management at the provincial level so that you can be trained and directed. Young people, if there is a will, there is a way,” said Yenny.
One thing that FPTI does to help plan the future of athletes is to invite financial advisors to provide advice to high-achieving athletes who win bonuses in various championships so that they can invest their prizes appropriately. The goal is so that it can be useful in old age.
“Through financial advisors, we help athletes manage the bonuses they receive. Maybe some want to invest in gold, land, stocks, etc. This is what we help direct. So that their money can continue to grow and can guarantee their old age,” said Yenny Wahid to Edy Suherli, Bambang Eros, Irfan Meidianto, and Dandi Januar when she stopped by the VOI office, Tanah Abang III, Central Jakarta, recently. Here is an excerpt.
Still rings in Yenny Wahid's mind when Indonesian rock climbers managed to defeat athletes from superpower countries and the song Indonesia Raya was sung accompanying the raising of the red and white. This is a source of pride for Indonesia. (Photo: Bambang Eros, DI: Raga Granada VOI)
Congratulations to the sport of rock climbing which contributed 1 gold at the Paris Olympics. Initially, what was the target set for this Olympics?
Alhamdulillah, thank you. Initially we set a target of two gold medals, one for men and one for women. But in the end we only achieved one gold medal through Veddriq Leonardo. The competition was very tight to get a medal. Winning this one gold is a significant contribution and is very entertaining for all of us. Veddriq (4.75) managed to beat a very tough competitor in the men's speed category; Wu Peng from China (4.77) won silver and Sam Watson from America (bronze).
Uniquely, because this is a knockout system, when fighting for the bronze medal, Sam Watson actually broke the world record in the men's speed category with a record of 4.74. Rock climbing is interesting, it's not necessarily the fastest who will get a medal. Our athletes often do that, in the qualifying round they managed to break the record, but failed to advance because of the knockout system.
This is the first moment rock climbing won gold, we hope it will become a tradition for the next Olympics.
Aamiin, hopefully it can come true in the next Olympics. We ask for your prayers and support. Defending the title is harder, for Veddriq this is a burden. I am sure with his character, he is a fairly stable child. If he already has a target, he will work diligently and consistently on his target. He has prepared himself to win gold at the 2028 Los Angeles Olympics.
In terms of age, is it still possible for him?
It is still possible, he is only 27 years old. We also have athletes who are older than Veddriq, his name is Aspar Jailolo (37). He can still climb the podium in several world championships. An athlete from Iran, Reza Alipur, is also a senior. The challenge is indeed tough when you are a senior. They have to face those who are still young. Reza at the Paris Olympics managed to enter the top 8.
Our athletes such as Kiromal Katibin, Alpian, etc., should be faster than Reza Alipur. But this Olympics implements a quota system; each country can only send two male and two female athletes. Without a quota, we can fill eight athletes.
Why haven't female athletes contributed medals in this Olympics? Even though their achievements in several championships are impressive?
There is an X factor in sports. In terms of technical ability, our female athletes are good, and their mentality is also okay. But when competing, they lose. So it's not in their hands, this is destiny. Urged Made Rita Kusuma Dewi, our target is silver or bronze. When competing, her hand swung too far when she was about to touch the sensor board. So she lost quickly to her opponent whose hand didn't swing. Even though their speed was the same. The difference was very small.
Has FPTI conducted a comprehensive evaluation after the Paris Olympics?
There hasn't been an official evaluation by sitting together, because each of us is still busy with various activities. Veddriq returned to Pontianak and he was paraded there for this victory. Then many of our athletes and coaches are preparing themselves to face PON, they are preparing to defend their respective provinces. Yesterday we sent 20 children to China for the Youth Championship. This is for regeneration and we continue to look for new seeds so that they can become successors to the seniors.
The productive period of athletes is not long, this is well realized by Yenny Wahid as the General Chairperson of FPTI. Her party helps athletes plan their finances so that they do not have difficulties in old age. (Photo: Bambang Eros, DI: Raga Granada VOI)
Yesterday you had the chance to meet President Jokowi at the Indonesian Independence Day at the IKN Nusantara, what was his response?
I told Mr. Jokowi. Veddriq's victory also has a geopolitical impact. First, the Indonesian flag can be flown the highest above the Chinese and American flags. Symbolically this is extraordinary, Indonesia defeated two superpower countries. There are rarely moments like this. Second, Veddriq defeated a Chinese athlete. If the winner was a Chinese athlete, the overall champion of the Olympics would be China, but because they lost, the overall champion was America. Because the number of gold medals is the same, the difference is in the silver and bronze medals. So America should thank Indonesia, hehehe.
Succeeding in the Olympics is prestigious for many countries. Because a country is considered advanced and a superpower when it wins a medal at the Olympics. Therefore, America, China, etc., invest a lot of human resources and funds to support the sporting achievements of their athletes. The coaching carried out is long, starting from finding seeds to continuous training.
It is a great pride when the national anthem can be played at the Olympics.
Yes, when the song "Indonesia Raya" was sung, we were all moved and cried. Our dreams and struggles in training have been achieved.
When at the IKN, what else did President Jokowi say?
The President joked, if that's the case, we have to ask America for a bonus because Veddriq beat the Chinese athlete so America is the overall champion. I said Mr. Jokowi lobbied, I can't do it alone. That's how the atmosphere was. But after we got the gold, I received congratulations from the American Ambassador who had only been on duty for a month, Kamala Shirin Lakhdhir.
Talking about bonuses, how much will the gold winners get and when will they be given?
Gold winners get IDR 6 billion, bronze IDR 1.65 billion. Meanwhile, coaches whose athletes win gold get a bonus of IDR 2.75 billion, and coaches whose athletes win bronze medals will get IDR 675 million. When will it be handed over, we are waiting for the state mechanism for handing over this bonus.
Do private parties also give bonuses?
I am trying to approach colleagues and relations to give appreciation to our athletes who have brought honor to the nation and state. The athlete's time span to be productive is very limited. This moment must be capitalized so that athletes can save for their old age. So that when they are old they can enjoy their hard work.
There are many athletes who are suffering in their old age, what else does the federation do?
We invite financial advisors to provide assistance to athletes in managing the bonuses they receive. Athletes are helped to allocate their funds according to their respective targets. Maybe some want to invest in gold, land, stocks, etc. This is what we help direct. So the money can continue to grow and can guarantee their old age.
So this is the role of many parties, including the state is also present to think about the future of athletes?
For the future of athletes, it is difficult to expect the state. The presence of the state in the sport of rock climbing is felt in the support of the national training center. We have built international scale wall climbing facilities. We are grateful for this support.
So far, what has been the pattern of cultivating and recruiting rock climbing athletes?
We work together with provincial administrators to hold age group championships. Those aged 14 are allowed to participate. From there, we monitor which ones are good, then we recruit them for further development. Veddriq was found at the PON event, then invited to join the national training center. Currently, there are 20 athletes who have entered the national training center.
So we don't lack athletes, right?
God willing, we have a lot of athletes, yes, through tiered recruitment in the regions. Even so, we continue to recruit new ones. Among those who enter the national training center, there is strong competition even though they are friendly. Everyone is motivated by Veddriq's achievements.
For parents who want to know if their child is talented at rock climbing, how do you do it?
Tell their child to try wall climbing, if their child is interested, they can join the nearest rock climbing club. Because if they practice at a club, their safety is guaranteed. Don't practice alone, that's risky. It could end tragically if you force yourself to practice. If done with a coach, rock climbing is a safe sport.
In the ASEAN region, our rock climbing athletes are the best, what about the world level?
We are one of the countries with the highest achievements. We are in the top three in the world. Our athletes are highly respected. The International Federation of Sport Climbing or IFSC sees Indonesia's leap in achievements, the graph continues to rise. Veddriq's victory at the Paris Olympics was very ideal. They saw the development of rock climbing in Indonesia in all aspects as good, if they lose at the Olympics, there is usually a sharp decline. Indonesia can be an example for many countries. The IFSC Secretary General also told many countries about the good development of rock climbing in Indonesia.
In my five years of leadership at FPTI, the development has been very serious. We bid for the world championship and we succeeded, which had not been achieved for 20 years. We held the championship in Jakarta. It is very difficult to hold it and succeed. IFSC said that this is one of the best world climbing championships in Jakarta (2023).
What is the best indicator?
Among them are the facilities we provide. Then the unique location of the competition. Usually the world championship has a natural or mountainous background. We made it in an urban area with the SCBD Sudirman area as the background. It is rare to make it in an urban setting. When done at night with good lighting, the photo results are extraordinarily beautiful. The photo was used as a cover for a rock climbing magazine. This makes us very proud. The enthusiasm of our audience is also high for this event. Everyone was touched after this championship was over.
Hopefully the success of Veddriq and other rock climbing athletes can be a trigger for others to achieve.
Yes, hopefully this achievement inspires other young people to do the same thing. If we are serious, we can definitely do it. And also inspire local governments to build rock climbing facilities, because the federation itself is not capable. For high school standards, around IDR 100 million or a little less is enough. But for international standards, it is indeed quite expensive, around billions of rupiah.
What is your advice for young people who want to join rock climbing?
Rock climbing is for all groups, anyone can. Our athletes are not all from the wealthy class. They have passion, have ideals, train seriously and finally achieve achievements. Veddriq was able to win gold at the Paris Olympics. If you want to, you can. If you aspire to be a professional rock climber, train at the nearest club and contact the federation management at the provincial level. So that you can be trained and directed. Young people, if there is a will, there is a way.
Here is Yenny Wahid's Balanced Lifestyle
Despite being busy with various activities, Yenny Wahid still takes time for healing and pursuing her hobby of taking care of her favorite plants at home. (Photo: Bambang Eros, DI: Raga Granada VOI)
It is okay to be busy as the General Chairperson of the Indonesian Rock Climbing Federation (FPTI), a company commissioner, in the political world, and a social organization. However, Yenny Wahid never forgets her role as a wife and mother of her three children, as well as her right to be able to heal and enjoy her hobbies. This is a balanced life from the daughter of the fourth President of the Republic of Indonesia, Abdurrahman Wahid alias Gus Dur.
This life, she said, must be balanced. "There must be balance in life, because if we only chase something, it's like someone chasing a kite. In the end, we forget to take the time to sit down and enjoy a beautiful waterfall," said the woman born in Jombang, East Java, October 29, 1974.
A short break is indeed necessary before running back to chasing life's targets. "Healing is very important, and I have many hobbies that must be done in order to stay sane. My hobbies are reading, gardening, planting flowers, and spending time with family and friends," said Yenny who likes to plant plants such as roses, aglonema, sansevieria, and others.
She takes the time to care for the plants, fertilize them, remove wilted leaves, and so on. “I also like to discuss with friends who are plant experts about tips for plants to grow and flower quickly. Oh, when the plants flower, I’m so happy. Coming home from out of town and being greeted by blooming flowers is a joy in itself,” continued Yenny, who has a collection of plants in every corner of her house, including the bathroom and bedroom.
“I chat with my plants, you know. Let them think I’m crazy, hehehe. Then, when I want to go out, I play with my plants first. When I get home, I feel a bit anxious if there are wilted plants. That’s what I do with my plants,” said the woman whose full name is Zannuba Ariffah Chafsoh.
My Sport Now Is Walking
Although she is no longer allowed to do heavy sports due to injury, Yenny Wahid still exercises; walking. (Photo: Bambang Eros, DI: Raga Granada VOI)
She had been involved in crossfit and kickboxing, but was injured. Now, Yenny Wahid is still undergoing regular therapy from her doctor. She also makes time to keep moving by walking, as directed by her doctor.
"Now, because of my age and having a spinal injury, the only exercise I do is walking. I am still continuing therapy while losing weight," said Yenny, who was a correspondent for The Sydney Morning Herald and The Age (Melbourne) before entering the political arena.
What she experienced was like a vicious circle. Being sick made her lazy to move, resulting in increased body weight. "This must be broken. We must be disciplined, regulate our diet, and keep moving. Moving is human nature. There are targets that must be achieved, it can be material, emotional, and also spiritual targets," explained the recipient of the Walkley Award for her coverage of East Timor post-referendum.
In the spiritual field, she wants to increase the routine worship that is carried out every day. "Everyone definitely wants to be close to God, according to the religion they believe in. "For me, I have to improve my prayers, complete the Quran, increase my dhikr and fasting," said the Director of the Wahid Institute.
Family is Still a Priority
The message of the late Gus Dur that Yenny Wahid always remembers is about being yourself, being honest, and respecting everyone regardless of background. (Photo: Bambang Eros, DI: Raga Granada VOI)
As a wife and mother of her children, she has committed to prioritizing family matters. “If my child has an event at school that clashes with activities outside, I will prioritize attending the child’s event,” she said as an example. “Except for those that are sudden and I can’t, I will coordinate with my husband. But I still handle 75% of the children’s affairs, including doing the children’s homework,” continued the wife of Dhohir Farisi.
To young people, Yenny advised them to be themselves. “First, in life you must have a target, with that target your life path will be more organized. Second, everything we do must have the blessing of our parents. This is absolute, because without the blessing of our parents, we will encounter many obstacles. The prayers of our parents will open the way to success,” she said seriously.
“Young people like to experiment and experience frustration. That’s normal. Parents and children must communicate with each other in order to create mutual understanding. I always listen to my child when he wants to talk. If he wants to be angry, that’s okay, as long as the way he expresses his feelings is good. You are not allowed to slam doors, shout, or cause damage," she said, adding that both children and parents should not be ashamed to apologize if they are wrong.
Yenny Wahid always remembers Gus Dur's message. "My father advised me to be myself, be honest, don't hurt others, treat people equally, and respect everyone, not because of their social, economic, political, and other backgrounds, but to respect everyone as a human being. This is my father's message that I also instill in my children," she concluded.
"We invite financial advisors to provide assistance to athletes in managing the bonuses they receive. Athletes are helped to allocate their funds according to their respective targets. Maybe some want to invest in gold, land, stocks, and others. This is what we help direct. So the money can continue to grow and can guarantee their old age,"
The English, Chinese, Japanese, Arabic, and French versions are automatically generated by the AI. So there may still be inaccuracies in translating, please always see Indonesian as our main language. (system supported by DigitalSiber.id)
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