Kebaya is no longer synonymous with traditional events or official celebrations only. In the hands of creative women, this traditional clothing continues to transform into a part of a modern lifestyle without losing its cultural roots.
Behind the revival of kebaya as a fashion choice that is increasingly sought after across generations, there are figures of women who are UMKM actors who play a role in keeping cultural heritage alive through their works and innovations.
One of them is Gusti Ian, founder of Kebaya Mbok Dhe, a fashion MSMEs that was born from a home scale and has now managed to reach customers abroad.
The journey of his business is not always smooth, in fact he started the business with limited capital and various challenges that women's MSMEs often face.
At the beginning of pioneering the business around 2021 to 2022, Gusti Ian first sold Muslim clothing such as gamis. At that time the market demand was quite high. However, the situation changed after the Covid-19 pandemic.
Consumer interest has started to decline, while capital challenges have become the biggest obstacle to developing the business.
"We really started small, everything was done from home. At that time, if there was a chance of a large order, it was often constrained by capital so that the opportunity had to be missed," he said at the 2026 Asia Grassroots Forum press conference held by Amartha in Jakarta, Thursday, June 4.
This condition made him start thinking about products that have a longer durability in the market. From there, the idea was born to focus on developing kebaya.
According to him, kebaya has an advantage because it is not tied to seasons or trends for a moment. This traditional clothing can be used on various occasions, both formal and informal events.
The decision was a turning point for his business journey. From originally only earning a turnover of around Rp200 thousand per day, Kebaya Mbok Dhe is now able to record an average turnover of around Rp50 million per month. In certain periods, especially when receiving many orders from abroad, the turnover can even reach Rp200 million to Rp300 million per month.
The number of customers continues to increase. Not only the general public, but also a number of public figures such as Rossa, Dewi Perssik, to Rina Nose have worn his kebaya collection. In addition to the domestic market, orders also come from the Indonesian diaspora living in the United States and various countries in Europe.
Despite the rapid growth of the business, Gusti Ian chose to maintain a personal approach. He did not make e-commerce the main channel for sales. Instead, he relied more on social media, especially Instagram, as a means of direct interaction with customers.
Each buyer usually consults first regarding the design, materials, to the details of the desired work. For him, a close relationship with customers is one way to maintain product exclusivity.
"I serve many custom orders. Usually customers contact us first for design, material, and price consultations. I think this exclusivity needs to be woven," he said.
The journey is certainly not free from challenges. In recent years, the price of raw materials and fabrics has continued to rise, even reaching 20 to 40 percent. This condition forces business actors to adjust prices so that product quality is maintained.
However, for Gusti Ian, the business challenge is not an excuse to stop working. It is precisely from limitations that creativity grows and opens up new opportunities. He also has a simple message for Indonesian women who want to start a business.
"Don't be afraid to start something. It's okay to have a small capital. If we are smart in sharpening and applying creativity and seeing the opportunities around us, we can make those opportunities grow and develop," he said.
More than just a business, Gusti Ian sees kebaya as a medium to maintain the continuity of Indonesian culture. His love for kebaya encourages him to continue to present designs that are closer to the younger generation.
The biggest challenge today is not to make the kebaya look luxurious, but to keep it relevant. Therefore, he often experiments with various silhouettes and modern details without losing his traditional identity.
"At first I really liked the kebaya. I hope the younger generation will not forget the traditional clothes we have. Because the kebaya in today's time can be worn for various events, both formal and informal," he said.
He added that the creativity of the designers is the key to making kebaya more popular. Modern touches such as puff sleeve details, silhouette games, and material exploration can make kebaya look fresher without losing its cultural roots.
The English, Chinese, Japanese, Arabic, and French versions are automatically generated by the AI. So there may still be inaccuracies in translating, please always see Indonesian as our main language. (system supported by DigitalSiber.id)
