YOGYAKARTA – Retinoids or retinol are active ingredients in skincare that are useful for anti-aging and overcoming acne. But according to board-certified dermatologist Harold Lancer, you may experience side effects when using it.

Retinoids are effective in increasing cell turnover. Healthy new cells will appear on the surface of the skin, launches Byrdie, Monday, June 11. However, when a facial cleanser contains retinoids, it can also trigger acne, redness, and/or peeling during the initial use. This condition is often referred to as retinol uglies because instead of nourishing the skin, it actually worsens the skin.

What makes purging because of cleansers that contain retinol?

Acne appears when using cleansers that contain retinol, because this active ingredient removes everything that clogs pores, including those hiding underneath. In an effort to replace these cells, it brings all that clogs the pores to the surface while resulting in a temporary increase in acne breakouts.

Corey L. Hartman, MD., a board-certified dermatologist based in Birmingham, says that retinoid users can also experience skin redness, peeling, and general skin irritation. In the area then the facial skin at risk of experiencing it? Hartman explained again, purging often appears around the nose and mouth. Because the skin in these two areas is the thinnest.

kenapa wajah purging pakai retinol dan cara mengatasi
Illustration of why facial purging uses retinol and how to overcome it (Freepik)
How to deal with purging due to retinol

Well, experiencing purging doesn't last forever. It just takes between 4-8 weeks. To fix this, check the following methods below. Hartman added, for more than three months and purging still occurs, then check with a dermatologist because it needs a clinical evaluation of the condition.

1. Don't stop using

If you experience purging early when using a cleanser containing retinol, don't stop using it. Because according to Hartman, stopping use means stopping the progress you've made so far. Cleaning with retinol is a temporary side effect, if possible, continue to use retinol as directed.

2. Check your routine in using skincare

The use of retinol needs to be balanced with other, softer skincare. Certified dermatologist Alexis Stephens, MD., recommends using gentle cleansers, topical retinoids, and moisturizers that protect the skin.

3. Reduce the frequency of use

Although continuous use is ideal, it can be adjusted to the severity. If it's too annoying, you can reduce the frequency of use. If ideally it is recommended to use it every day, try reducing the frequency by using it 2-3 times a week. The frequency of use can be increased after deducting, but it needs to be adjusted to the conditions.

4. Use a little to get a lot of benefits

Many people use a lot of skincare because they want maximum results. But, explains Lancer, overusing all clinical-grade anti-aging treatments can cause more damage. So, Lancer advises, use only a little, especially when you first use it.

5. Apply moisturizer first

You can apply a moisturizer first, the goal is to prevent the retinol from irritating the skin. This method can be used for sensitive skin. Prevention can also be done by mixing retinol with a gentle moisturizer.

6. Protect facial skin from sun exposure

The use of retinol makes the skin more susceptible to UV damage. This is because retinol and retinoids work to speed up the life cycle in skin cells that are sensitive to sunlight. Therefore, wear a sunscreen with an SPF of 30 or higher that is applied during the day.

That's the reason why retinol makes facial skin purging. How to deal with it can be adjusted to the conditions experienced.


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