H&M Plans To Use AI-Based Models To Reap Controversy

JAKARTA - The well-known brand fashion H&M announced its plans to create digital cloning of its models using artificial intelligence (AI) this year.

The move sparked debate in the fashion industry, which is still grappling with the impact of technology on its workers.

As one of the largest clothing retailers in the world, H&M revealed to CNN that it plans to create 30 virtual twins from its models throughout the year.

However, the company is still in the exploration stage regarding how these avatars will be used. H&M also stressed that they are working with various parties in the industry, including agencies and models to ensure this initiative is carried out responsibly.

H&M stated that the models will still have the right to their digital twin.

Thus, they can work for other brands and receive pay every time their digital avatars are used in the campaign, as in the production of ordinary photos.

Paul W. Gimp, Secretary General of the UK's Arts and Entertainment Workers Union, welcomed H&M's promise to keep paying the model.

However, he stressed that this step must be accompanied by AI protection in union agreements and laws that protect workers' rights.

"Competitions to 'innovate' in artificial intelligence should also not be a race to reduce costs in order to increase profits,"ANGgong said, quoted by VOI from the CNN website, Wednesday, April 2.

Artificial intelligence will not be possible without creativity and human work, and humans must remain the center of every creative process," he added.

H&M's move also sparked a negative reaction in the fashion industry, where many workers are already facing unstable working conditions.

Sara Ziff, a former model who is now a labor activist and founder of the New York Model Alliance organization, expressed concern about the use of digital models without clear protection.

"In an industry that has historically paid less attention to workers' rights, this new H&M initiative raises important questions about approval and compensation," Ziff said in an official statement from the Model Alliance.

"This move also has the potential to replace many workers in the fashion world, including makeup artists, straighteners, and other creative artists in our community." he continued.

In fact, H&M is not the first brand to experiment with this technology. In March 2023, jeans brand Levi Strauss & Co. announced they would use AI-based models to complement human models in their campaigns. However, after receiving sharp criticism, Levi 's insists it will not reduce shootings with the original model.

In July 2023, the Spanish fashion brand Mango also launched a fully AI-generated campaign to promote its newest collection of young clothing lines.

Meanwhile, AI-based models and influencers are now increasingly popping up. Even last year, the world watched the first beauty event fully followed by the AI model.